The Tuscan Bread

Tuscan bread is easy to make, and if you use natural yeast, it not only enhances the nutritional value but also contributes to a healthier diet when enjoyed with regular meals.

Saltless Tuscan Bread

Many cooks and cookbook authors believe that bread made without salt would be bland and tasteless. However, for centuries, traditional Tuscan bread has been made without salt. Even Dante, the famous Florentine poet, referenced this in his "Divine Comedy." Predicting the hardships of his exile from Florence, he figuratively speaks of them: "You shall learn how salty is the taste of another bread."

There are various shapes of Tuscan bread, from large, flat rounds scored in tic-tac-toe patterns to smaller, crusty ovals. Sometimes rough and coarse, other times more compact, these breads are always mellow and mild.

One reason for saltless bread is that Tuscans, known for their stubbornness, refused to pay the government salt tax, opting instead to make bread without it. But gastronomes also point out that Tuscan bread perfectly complements their cuisine, which is rich in strong flavors. For example, Tuscans enjoy thick slices of local prosciutto, which is much stronger and saltier than those from other regions, such as the flavorful "Finocchiona" sausage. The mild flavor of Tuscan bread provides the perfect balance.

The sauces for Tuscan meats and stews are often extremely spicy and flavorful, and saltless bread perfectly balances these robust flavors when soaked in the gravies. Use Tuscan bread as the Tuscans do: for "Fettunta" (a slice of bread grilled or broiled, rubbed with fresh garlic, and brushed with fruity olive oil from the first pressing), crostini with chicken livers or game, highly flavored Tuscan salami and prosciutto, or for soaking up spicy sauces and gravies. Though this bread tends to dry quickly, it shines when soaked in dressings or liquids for salads or soups like "panzanella" or "ribollita."

How to Make Natural Yeast

Making your first natural yeast, or "lievito madre," is not easy, but with dedication and passion, you can create your own yeast from scratch. Here are some simple directions to get you started.

Start with mixed flours milled from organic whole grains: 30% spring wheat, 30% hard red winter wheat, 30% spelt, and 10% rye.

My favorite mother yeast recipe uses 60% hydration. You'll need 1 pound of distilled water (avoid tap water as the iodine content can prevent yeast development), 28 ounces of all-purpose flour, 28 ounces of mixed flours, 4 grams of salt, and 2 grams of malt. For the best results, if you have fresh wheat, wait until the last moment to mill the grains into flour to preserve the maximum number of wild yeast cells present in the grain.

Mix the flour and malt first, then add the salt after about a minute of mixing. Add the water, mix again, and then add the salt.

When the starter is bouncy and the imprint of your finger remains visible, roll it into a ball, dust it with flour, and flatten it into a disk that will fit at the bottom of your chosen plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. For these proportions of flour and water, the disk should be at least 7 inches in diameter, so select a container accordingly. Place the ball in the container, resting it on a mixture of coarsely milled whole grains (again, wheat, spelt, and rye) to prevent light and air from filtering through. Cover with another layer of the same mixture (the disk of starter must be entirely buried), and close the lid tightly. Let ferment for about 22 hours at 80°F (26°C).

After this time, dust off the ball. A crust will have formed. Harvest 200 grams of this crust. Measure 260 grams of water at 86°F (30°C) and pour it over the chunks of crust. When the crust is soft enough (after about 15 minutes), use an immersion blender or mixer to blend it with the water.

Mix this starter with the flour and malt, fold it over and over, add the salt, and form it into a plump ball again. Follow the same process, flattening it slightly, and place it in a sealed container without a flour coating. Let it ripen overnight at 82°F (28°C). It will triple in size.

Then blend the 200 grams of ripe dough (discard the rest) with 240 grams of water at 86°F (30°C). Combine 400 grams of flour with the diluted dough, mix briefly, add 1 gram of salt, and form it into a ball. Let it ferment again for just 4 hours at 80°F (26°C). Repeat this process at least 3 times until the dough is more than 3 times its original size.

Lievito Madre - Learn more about natural yeast and other bread and baking recipes.