The process of preparing mushrooms—from harvesting and transporting to preserving, cutting, and cooking—is a delicate art that influences the quality of the mushrooms we eat.
In Europe, different countries have developed unique culinary traditions around mushrooms. For example, in England, it’s common to grill or fry mushrooms, while in France, the famous "Champignons" are widely used in professional cooking.
Cooking and serving mushrooms as a starter can be intriguing, or they can be used to create rich, flavorful sauces. In Italy, some of the best mushroom harvesting areas are in the Alps and along the mountainous coasts, where varieties like Porcini, Chanterelle, Ovolo, and Morels are popular.
Mushrooms are generally low in calories and high in potassium and phosphorus, making them a nutritious addition to any diet. In Tuscany, we have a traditional soup called "Acquacotta," which highlights the rich flavors of mushrooms.
The Drying Process
As cooking techniques have evolved, drying mushrooms has become a common method of preservation. This process typically involves curing the mushrooms with salt, which absorbs the moisture. The mushrooms are then dehydrated on trays and stored in jars for long periods. This industrial process allows us to enjoy various mushroom species year-round and helps stabilize market prices during off-seasons.
Though dried mushrooms differ from fresh ones, soaking them in warm water for about half an hour not only rehydrates the mushrooms but also creates a flavorful soaking liquid. This liquid can be used in soups, sauces, or even as a base for unique dishes like sorbets or ice creams.
Cooking Methods
The best method for cooking mushrooms depends on the texture and flavor you want to achieve. Here are some popular methods:
Shock Boiling
If you plan to store mushrooms in a savory solution or marinade, shock boiling is an excellent method. Boil the mushrooms in salty water for less than a minute, then air dry them on a tray. Afterward, you can cover them with olive oil, vinegar, or a combination of both. This method preserves much of the original quantity of the mushrooms, although some flavor is lost in the boiling water. The marinade will infuse the mushrooms with new, unique flavors.
Grilling
Grilling mushrooms brings out their natural flavors, especially when seasoned after grilling. You can enhance the taste with a drizzle of olive oil and fresh thyme leaves. Portobello, Porcini, and Chanterelle mushrooms are particularly well-suited for grilling. If you have a wood-fired grill, it adds an extra layer of flavor. For best results, consider flash steaming the mushrooms first, then cooling and grilling them to retain their original volume.
Sautéing
Sautéing mushrooms causes them to lose most of their original volume as they absorb the fat in the pan. This method yields a rich flavor, making sautéed mushrooms an excellent garnish for meats, fish dishes, or even as a topping for toasted crackers or bread.
Sous Vide
Sous vide is one of the safest cooking methods, allowing mushrooms to cook slowly in their juices while retaining their full flavor and nutritional value. Place the mushrooms in a vacuum-sealed bag and cook them at a low temperature in a water bath. After cooking, cool the mushrooms quickly in ice water or a blast chiller. This method preserves the mushrooms for up to three weeks in the refrigerator or up to a year if frozen. You can also add a marinade to the bag before cooking for a rich, infused flavor. Sous vide cooking results in minimal volume loss, making it a preferred method for high-quality dishes.
Varieties of Mushrooms
The variety of mushrooms available is vast, but in my menus and recipes, I often use four types: Porcini, Chanterelle, Shiitake, and Morel mushrooms. The choice of mushroom depends on seasonality and market availability. For example, my wild mushroom ragout sauce is a popular dish that showcases the earthy flavors of these mushrooms.
Recipe: The Summer Taste
- 4 eggs
- 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
- 4 slices of golden Yukon potato
- 2 skins of tomato confit
- 6 ounces of tomato concassé
- 1 teaspoon thyme
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 glass of extra virgin olive oil
- 1 teaspoon white vinegar
- 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
- Salt and pepper to taste
Wash and air dry the mushrooms, then cut them into large dice (Brunoise). Sauté the mushrooms with a touch of olive oil, thyme, and chopped garlic. Add the tomato concassé and continue sautéing for a few more minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Poach the eggs by cooking them in lightly boiling water with vinegar. Once done, strain and trim the eggs to remove any excess white edges.
Wash and air dry the green zucchini, then thinly slice them with a razor. Season with light salt, pepper, and a touch of extra virgin olive oil. Arrange the zucchini salad at the center of the plate, then add a scoop of the pressed mushrooms using a ring mold. Top with the poached egg, garnish with the tomato confit, fried potato slices, and chopped tarragon and parsley.
Popular Mushroom Varieties in Cooking
Some of the most common mushrooms used in cooking include:
- Porcini: Harvested in late summer, these mushrooms are prized for their rich flavor.
- Chanterelle: Typically harvested in the spring, Chanterelles are known for their delicate taste.
- Morel: Another spring variety, Morels are highly sought after for their unique texture and flavor.
- Champignon: Also known as button mushrooms, these are the most commercially available and widely used mushrooms.
Mushrooms generally grow in grassy areas or bushes after rain or weather changes. The earth's climate plays a significant role in their natural growth. For more information on another rare and expensive type of mushroom, you can read about the Earth's Black Diamond.
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