The best potato "Gnocchi"

Gnocchi is a traditional dish that exemplifies the fine art of Italian cooking.

Gnocchi has been featured in the oldest Italian cookbooks dating back to the 1300s. Interestingly, these were originally referred to as "ravioli," named after "robiola," a rounded root vegetable similar to turnips, the greens of which are known today as rapini or broccoli rabe. Although modern broccoli rabe has been bred to eliminate the rounded root, the traditional variety has always been used in Italy.

Throughout the Renaissance and into the early 19th century, these "ravioli" without pasta were commonly eaten in spicy soups or "minestre," which were typically served as the first course of Italian meals before the widespread popularity of dried pasta in the mid-1800s. Ravioli wrapped in pasta were a less common alternative but evolved into different shapes over the centuries. One version that retained the name and original shape is the ravioli "nudi," still traditional in Florence and made from spinach and ricotta. In my family, we often enjoyed these, affectionately calling them "naked ravioli."

Modern gnocchi is primarily made from potatoes, either on their own or combined with other vegetables or starches. Potatoes were a relatively late addition to Italian cuisine, arriving earlier than when Parmentier popularized them in France.

Potato gnocchi should be very tender, using as little flour as possible to hold them together. The more flour added, the easier they are to handle, but they become tougher in texture. Adding eggs or grated cheese to the dough is not recommended, as it further toughens the gnocchi. Authentic gnocchi often surprises those familiar only with the commercial variety, as they are not chewy but rather melt in your mouth. In Italy, the toughness of poorly made gnocchi is a running joke, and the term "Gnocco" is used as slang for someone who is dense.

To achieve the lightness required, the potatoes should be prepared to absorb the least amount of liquid. Older potatoes are better for gnocchi, as they contain less liquid-absorbing starch. Potatoes with "eyes" popping out of the skin are ideal. They should be peeled while still hot, without running them under water, then riced and left to cool before mixing in the flour. Cold potatoes absorb less flour than warm or lukewarm ones. In Liguria, pure potato gnocchi are traditionally dressed with pesto or tomato sauce. In Piedmont, gnocchi are made with a combination of potatoes and other vegetables, often incorporating eggs and grated cheese, usually Grana Padano. They are sometimes served with a truffle sauce typical of the region.

The wonderful squash-and-potato gnocchi from Mantova in Lombardy are flavored with saffron, nutmeg, and crushed bitter-almond amaretti cookies, and topped with thin shavings of Grana Padano. Carrot-and-potato gnocchi from Liguria are served with a superb "agliata" sauce made from many cloves of crushed raw garlic combined with white wine and vinegar. Gnocchi from Padova, near Venice, combine potatoes, cornmeal, and bread crumbs, creating a slightly chewy gnocchi baked with a savory meat sauce.

In regional Italian cooking, gnocchi often appear on menus, specials, or as an entrée side, depending on the chef’s creativity. They can take various shapes, textures, ingredients, and, of course, flavors. A good gourmet knows what true gnocchi are.

In this post, I want to share how to prepare the best potato gnocchi you’ve ever tasted.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1) Never boil the potatoes for gnocchi. Instead, bake them by wrapping them in aluminum foil or steam them. This ensures that the potatoes cook in their own water and starch.

2) Do not use eggs in the dough; just add enough flour to absorb the moisture from the cooked and riced potatoes.

3) Never let the potatoes cool completely after baking or steaming. Peel them while they are hot, then rice them and spread them on a flat surface to cool slightly. This allows the starch to evaporate before you mix in the flour.

Ingredients:

• 1 lb of baking potatoes
• 1 3/4 cups of unbleached all-purpose flour
• Salt and freshly grated nutmeg
• 4 tablespoons (2 ounces) sweet butter
• Coarse-grained salt

Preparation:

1. Use large, evenly sized baking potatoes to ensure even cooking. Steam or wrap the potatoes in aluminum foil, then bake them in the oven at 300°F.

2. Spread the flour on a pasta board. Pass the potatoes through a potato ricer onto the flour. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and nutmeg, then start incorporating the flour, little by little, into the potatoes until the dough is homogeneous and all but 1/2 cup of flour is incorporated. Knead gently for 5 or 6 minutes.

3. Cut the dough into several pieces and roll each piece into a long, thin roll about 1/2 inch in diameter. Cut each roll into 1-inch pieces. Use a fork to roll the pieces, lightly flouring the fork as needed to prevent sticking. Continue shaping the gnocchi until all the dough is used.

4. Place a large stockpot filled with cold water on the heat. While the water is heating, melt the butter in a small saucepan and pour it into a serving dish. Place the serving dish next to the stockpot.

5. When the water is boiling, add coarse salt to taste, then raise the heat and quickly drop the gnocchi, one by one, into the stockpot. Lightly stir the water with a wooden spoon to keep the gnocchi from sticking. After a few seconds, the gnocchi will rise to the surface; let them cook for 1 minute more. Using a strainer or skimmer, remove the gnocchi to the serving dish.

6. Serve the gnocchi hot, with the sauce of your choice.

Choosing the right type of potatoes is crucial for great gnocchi. Different types of potatoes yield different flavors and textures. For example, if you want to make potato gnocchi with the rich flavor of Italian Porcini mushrooms, I recommend using potatoes that are higher in gluten, like Yukon Gold or Kennebec, which are excellent all-purpose potatoes for baking. Try making your gnocchi with these potatoes, and let me know how it turns out!